Ah, The Siren Song of A Cat at 0430

Until this morning, and aside from a standard couple of days of jet lag, I have been sleeping very well here in Athens. I don’t generally, so it has been a welcome change, and part of that change was doubtless due to the fact that Nibbler was not waking me up sometime in the three o’clock hour, as is her wont. Maybe she was dealing with jet lag, as well, though we all know from Miyazaki that this is unlikely.

Regardless, Nibbler’s trills and occasional yowls woke me at 0430 and eventually roused me out of bed entirely by 0545. We have lived together long enough that I know better than to think I could just feed her and then go back to bed, and this is even more the case these days when her food is such a fraught issue. Nibbler is well into the kidney disease stage of her life, and this has upended her relationship with food. She clearly wants it, but she has little interest in most food we put in front of her. She has an intake appointment with her Athens vet tomorrow morning, so we hope to make the transition to prescription food over the next week. It may be a challenge, though. Well, this is another reason why Athenians’ love/need of coffee is so convenient.

I taught the first session of my course, Mythology in the Films of Yorgos Lanthimos, at The Athens Centre on Monday afternoon. We won’t get to the Classics content of the course until the third week, so for now we were starting out with Lanthimos’s feature directorial debut, Kinetta (2005). It’s not an easy film, but not for the usual reasons when it comes to Lanthimos. Instead of potentially uncomfortable depictions of sex and violence, or the hulking specter of psychosexual taboos, Kinetta offers vaguely mysterious characters shuffling through a virtual anti-narrative with very little dialogue. As one of my students observed (without precisely complaining), it’s boring. I don’t entirely share that assessment, but I come to it with my own interests in independent film, so I’m not exactly impartial. Still, the students were great. They paid attention, and we had a rousing discussion of the film, what it does, and how it does it. It was a solid start to the course, and I assured them that, whether or not they enjoyed any of the future films in the course, none of them will be boring.

I’m also using this opportunity in Athens to really dig into modern Greek. I have been using Duolingo for Greek for over a year now, and that has given me an excellent context to begin more formal learning. I have a moderate vocabulary and some very basic grammar, but I haven’t forced Christina to speak Greek with me, and so my natural reluctance to sound stupid in public has kept me from trying to speak much Greek when I am out and about. To help me with that, I have enrolled in a Greek I class while I am here, and my first class (I’m joining late, sorry!) was last night. It’s been decades since I was in a language classroom, but it felt familiar and in this context a lot of fun. I’m excited to keep going and sound stupid even more often than I already do.

I can’t let this update pass without acknowledging the death of Tom Robbins this week at the age of 92. I didn’t find my way to his novels until I was in college (Thank you, Stacy!), and even then I read most of them after college while I was in the Army, since my English major kept my TBR pile Seussian if not Cyclopean. Robbins has always stood apart like authors I most admire. It’s not that he did something very well that other writers were doing; it’s that he seemed to be doing something entirely his own. Sui generis. On top of that, he was knocking it out of the park. I admire him a great deal as a writer, and from what little I know of him as a person, he seems equally admirable. He found joy and love and reasons to laugh and dance at every turn, and yet he didn’t back down when taking a stand was necessary. This is a model I’d like to emulate more. It’s easier to imagine being one thing or the other: a warrior for a cause, or a jester who keeps people’s spirits afloat in dark times. Robbins seems like an example of someone who could do both as needed. Maybe it’s something about dancing…

You’ll Myth Me When I’m Gone

Some of you know already, but for those who aren’t aware, Christina and I are in our first week of leading our first study abroad program: Bucknell/Penn State in Athens! Christina is the official faculty-in-residence leader of the trip, but as her partner and the instructor of one course this term, I am obviously helping her with the formal and informal duties and obligations related to shepherding ten undergraduates on an 89-day adventure into Greeces both modern and ancient.

Christina is teaching two of her own political science courses related to Greek political development and democracy in theory and practice, while I will be teaching a course on the films of Yorgos Lanthimos and their often fraught relationship with Greek myth. Christina is also responsible for overseeing a Culture and Environment course that brings students (and us) into more direct contact with experts in the modern Greek context, including experts on wildfires, sea turtle conservation, various agricultural concerns, and more. In addition, all of the students take an archaeology course on ancient Greece, and they are given the option of enrolling in a modern Greek course, too.

The students are fantastic, animated, and engaged. We’re all getting over our jet lag, settling in to our surroundings, and finding our bearings around the Pangrati neighborhood of Athens near the Kalimarmaro Olympic stadium and the Temple of Olympian Zeus. Christina and I have already twice returned for solid runs in the National Gardens next to the Parliament building, where we ran when came to Athens in December of 2023.

The program is facilitated partly through the Athens Centre, a local philanthropic organization that provides logistical support to academic programs of varying length and focus. There is a large classroom there where I found this wonderful framed poster from a film screening from decades past. It made me feel at home to be part of an organization that cares about sharing modern culture as much as it cares about introducing students to ancient civilization, as well.

One of the other extraordinary parts of this experience is that we chose to bring our elderly cat, Nibbler (she’s almost 18!), along with us on this adventure.

This was the first time Nibbler ever flew in an airplane, and she pretty much handled it like a pro. She was a bit cranky on the second leg of the journey from Frankfurt to Athens, but we all arrived in one piece. Now she is getting to know her new stomping grounds.

Meanwhile, our other adorable feline, Madeleine Albright (the tortie), is back at home in Lewisburg with our house sitters, one of whom comes with a cat of her own, the relatively kittenish Annata (gray and white). We get photographic evidence with some regularity that Madeleine Albright is warming nicely to her new housemate.